Benteng Kalamata: The Historic Turtle-Shaped Fortress in Ternate
Benteng Kalamata is one of the historic fortresses in Ternate Island, Maluku Utara, Indonesia. It was built by the Portuguese in 1540 as a base for defense and expansion of their power in the spice-rich region. The fortress has a unique turtle-shaped design that reflects the artistic and strategic skills of its builders. Today, Benteng Kalamata is a popular tourist attraction that offers a glimpse of the rich and turbulent history of Ternate.
1. The History of Benteng Kalamata
Benteng Kalamata, which means “red wood fortress” in the local language, was originally named Santa Lucia by the Portuguese. It was constructed by Antonio Pigafetta, a Venetian scholar and explorer who accompanied Ferdinand Magellan on his circumnavigation of the world. Pigafetta chose the location of the fortress on the coast of Ternate, facing the neighboring island of Tidore, which was controlled by the Spanish. The fortress was intended to protect the Portuguese from the attacks of the Spanish and their allies, as well as to secure their monopoly of the clove trade, which was the most valuable spice at the time.
The fortress was built using natural materials such as coral reefs and andesite stones, which were abundant in the area. The stones were bonded with kalero, a lime mortar made from burned and crushed coral reefs. The fortress had four bastions with loopholes for cannons and guns, and a central courtyard with a well. The walls were about 60 cm thick and 3 m high, and the shape of the fortress resembled a turtle, which symbolized strength and longevity.
The Portuguese did not enjoy their dominance in Ternate for long, as they faced resistance from the local sultanate and the people. The conflict escalated when the Portuguese governor, Lopez de Mesquita, assassinated Sultan Hairun Jamil, the ruler of Ternate, in 1570. The murder sparked a revolt led by Sultan Baabullah, the brother and successor of Sultan Hairun. In 1575, after a fierce battle, the Portuguese were expelled from Ternate and their fortress was taken over by the sultanate.
The fortress did not remain in the hands of the Ternateans for long, either. In 1583, the Spanish, who had been waiting for an opportunity to seize Ternate, invaded the island and captured the fortress. They renamed it San Juan Bautista and used it as a trading post for spices. However, the Spanish also faced constant attacks from the Ternateans and their allies, such as the Dutch and the English, who were also interested in the spice trade.
In 1609, the Dutch, under the command of Governor General Pieter Both, managed to take over the fortress from the Spanish. They renamed it Fort Oranje and made it their headquarters in the region. The Dutch renovated and expanded the fortress, adding more bastions, barracks, warehouses, and a church. The Dutch also established a close relationship with the Ternate sultanate, which became their ally against the Spanish and the English.
The fortress remained under the Dutch control until 1942, when the Japanese invaded Indonesia during World War II. The Japanese occupied the fortress and used it as a military base. They also destroyed some parts of the fortress, such as the church and the well. After the war, the fortress was returned to the Indonesian government, which declared it as a national heritage site in 1973. The fortress was also renamed as Benteng Kalamata, after the name of Prince Kalamata, the brother of Sultan Madarsyah, who ruled Ternate in the 17th century.
2. The Attractions of Benteng Kalamata
Benteng Kalamata is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Ternate. It is located in Kayu Merah Village, Ternate Selatan District, about 15 minutes drive from the city center. The fortress is open 24 hours a day and there is no entrance fee. Visitors can explore the fortress and admire its architecture and history. They can also enjoy the scenic view of the sea and the islands of Tidore and Maitara from the fortress.
Some of the highlights of the fortress are:
- The main gate, which is decorated with the coat of arms of the Portuguese and the Dutch, as well as the inscription “Anno 1540”, which indicates the year of the construction of the fortress.
- The bastions, which are named after the four evangelists: Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Each bastion has a different shape and size, and some of them have cannons and guns on display.
- The courtyard, which is the center of the fortress and has a flagpole and a monument. The monument is dedicated to the heroes of Ternate who fought against the colonial powers.
- The museum, which is located in one of the former barracks. The museum exhibits various artifacts and relics related to the history and culture of Ternate, such as weapons, tools, ceramics, coins, and photographs.
- The turtle statue, which is located outside the fortress. The statue is a replica of the original turtle-shaped design of the fortress, which was destroyed by the Japanese. The statue is a symbol of the resilience and endurance of the Ternate people.
3. The Frequently Asked Questions about Benteng Kalamata
Here are some of the common questions that visitors may have about Benteng Kalamata:
Why is the fortress named after a red wood?
The name Benteng Kalamata comes from the local name of the area where the fortress is located, which is Kayu Merah or “red wood”. The name refers to the reddish color of the soil and the wood that are found in the area.
Why is the fortress shaped like a turtle?
The turtle-shaped design of the fortress was inspired by the natural environment of Ternate, which is surrounded by the sea and has many turtles. The turtle also represents the strength and longevity of the fortress and the people of Ternate.
What is the significance of the coat of arms on the main gate?
The coat of arms on the main gate show the history and the identity of the fortress. The coat of arms of the Portuguese consists of five shields with five dots each, which symbolize the five wounds of Christ. The coat of arms of the Dutch consists of a lion with a sword and seven arrows, which symbolize the unity and the courage of the seven provinces of the Netherlands.
What are the best times to visit the fortress?
The fortress can be visited at any time of the day, but the best times are in the morning and in the evening, when the weather is cooler and the view is more beautiful. The morning is also a good time to see the sunrise and the fishermen activities, while the evening is a good time to see the sunset and the city lights.
How to get to the fortress?
The fortress is easily accessible by car, motorcycle, or public transportation. From the city center, visitors can take the Jalan Sultan Khairun road and follow the signs to the fortress. The fortress is about 5 km from the city center and the trip takes about 15 minutes.